I feel like I’m starting up the civil war when I suggest a blue cheese to some folks. It seems to be the cheese that divides people the most. (can I get an amen cheese-mongers??) I don’t know what it is...the appearance or the taste, most likely both. I think blue mold on white mold is pretty cool...but it puts some people off. When the penicillium roqueforti or penicillium glaucum is listed on the cheese as an ingredient, people freak out. We had a customer at the counter ask if there were antibiotics in blue cheese. My co-worker explained that it was just a specific mold that helps to ripen the cheese and it is not antibiotics. The customer was quite argumentative, but then ended up stating, “Well, I’m allergic to mold anyway.” Hmmm, something is wrong if you are shopping in the cheese section and allergic to mold. You sound like you have no idea what you are talking about and that you need to read more books. On mold. And cheese. And how to act towards retail employees...which yes, I know it’s hard to wrap your head around, but we are people too…
But I digress….
The surface of cheese is fascinating, both the inner paste and the rind. Rinds, not specifically to blues here, can be naturally mottled brown with flecks of white and yellow like the rustic tommes from France, vibrant orange and reddish hues as in the washed rind family (made originally in monasteries but now all over the secular world), and geotrichum’s wrinkled rinds that as customers say, “ looks like a brain.” This brain- like phenomenon is also known as toad’s skin, or in French “Peau De Crapaud” if you want to sound really up your own ass. I don’t even know how to pronounce that one... “Geo” can either be a good mold or not...in the case of many goat cheeses it’s desirable...think Vermont Creamery’s Bonne Bouche and Langa’s La Tur, but it can be a defect as well depending on the context.
Blue is no exception in terms of beautiful surface. Their rinds can be thin, knobby, and golden brown as is the case with Stilton and Jasper Hill’s Bayley Hazen. Blues can be leaf wrapped, which is practiced in Spain with Valdeon and most notably Cabrales. The leaf wrapping is wonderful because it is semi-permeable, and contributes to the Spanish blues’ drier textures. The Spanish blues pair most excellently with honey or think the savory route and top a nice juicy rib-eye alongside a bold Monastrell wine (Juan Gil is an excellent choice). Also, many blues are wrapped with foil (think Roquefort, and lots of domestic choices such as my ultimate favorite Point Reyes Original Blue). But enough of all this rind talk, my favorite part of the blues is the paste. Naturally because it’s the part of the cheese you eat, but it also it is lovely to look at. I love finding little blue fuzzy secret caves...right in my cheese. Take a look at these blue beauties….
But I digress….
The surface of cheese is fascinating, both the inner paste and the rind. Rinds, not specifically to blues here, can be naturally mottled brown with flecks of white and yellow like the rustic tommes from France, vibrant orange and reddish hues as in the washed rind family (made originally in monasteries but now all over the secular world), and geotrichum’s wrinkled rinds that as customers say, “ looks like a brain.” This brain- like phenomenon is also known as toad’s skin, or in French “Peau De Crapaud” if you want to sound really up your own ass. I don’t even know how to pronounce that one... “Geo” can either be a good mold or not...in the case of many goat cheeses it’s desirable...think Vermont Creamery’s Bonne Bouche and Langa’s La Tur, but it can be a defect as well depending on the context.
Blue is no exception in terms of beautiful surface. Their rinds can be thin, knobby, and golden brown as is the case with Stilton and Jasper Hill’s Bayley Hazen. Blues can be leaf wrapped, which is practiced in Spain with Valdeon and most notably Cabrales. The leaf wrapping is wonderful because it is semi-permeable, and contributes to the Spanish blues’ drier textures. The Spanish blues pair most excellently with honey or think the savory route and top a nice juicy rib-eye alongside a bold Monastrell wine (Juan Gil is an excellent choice). Also, many blues are wrapped with foil (think Roquefort, and lots of domestic choices such as my ultimate favorite Point Reyes Original Blue). But enough of all this rind talk, my favorite part of the blues is the paste. Naturally because it’s the part of the cheese you eat, but it also it is lovely to look at. I love finding little blue fuzzy secret caves...right in my cheese. Take a look at these blue beauties….
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So in conclusion, give cheese a chance...blue cheese that is. Embrace the slight medicinal twang and sharpness from the mold. Start with the mild varieties and work your way up to the more assertive selections. As a rule of thumb, the domestic varieties have a cleaner flavor profile, that is to say less “barnyardy” than the Euro versions.
And it’s not antibiotics...and blues won’t cure any infections, but they sure can make you feel a whole lot better. A little bit goes a long way and it is an acquired taste. A nice way to start out is pairing some blues. It's a lot of fun and mellows out the bite. Things that taste great with blue cheese: caramelized nuts and dried cherries are my favorite. No wait...honey and blue is my favorite...but what about blue with pears? Or divine with a hearty raisin walnut bread! The bottom line is that blues have a strong flavor profile that should be matched up with foods that have an equal intensity of flavor. Pair its sharp and salty notes with sweet and tart flavors. It is to die for with dessert wines!
Some noteworthy milder blues: Jasper Hill Bayley Hazen (VT), Kerrygold Cashel Blue (Ireland), Ludwig Farms Vermillion Blue (IL)
Graduate to the big boys: Carles roquefort (France), gorgonzola picante (Italy), Cabrales (Spain)
American beauties: Point Reyes Original Blue (CA), Roelli Dunbarton Blue (WI), Rogue Creamery Rogue River Blue (OR), Old Chatham Ewe’s Blue (NY), Roth Buttermilk Blue (WI)
Across the pond faves: Colston Basset Stilton (England), Bleu de Causses (France), and Fourme D’Ambert (France)
Stay cheesy out there!
And it’s not antibiotics...and blues won’t cure any infections, but they sure can make you feel a whole lot better. A little bit goes a long way and it is an acquired taste. A nice way to start out is pairing some blues. It's a lot of fun and mellows out the bite. Things that taste great with blue cheese: caramelized nuts and dried cherries are my favorite. No wait...honey and blue is my favorite...but what about blue with pears? Or divine with a hearty raisin walnut bread! The bottom line is that blues have a strong flavor profile that should be matched up with foods that have an equal intensity of flavor. Pair its sharp and salty notes with sweet and tart flavors. It is to die for with dessert wines!
Some noteworthy milder blues: Jasper Hill Bayley Hazen (VT), Kerrygold Cashel Blue (Ireland), Ludwig Farms Vermillion Blue (IL)
Graduate to the big boys: Carles roquefort (France), gorgonzola picante (Italy), Cabrales (Spain)
American beauties: Point Reyes Original Blue (CA), Roelli Dunbarton Blue (WI), Rogue Creamery Rogue River Blue (OR), Old Chatham Ewe’s Blue (NY), Roth Buttermilk Blue (WI)
Across the pond faves: Colston Basset Stilton (England), Bleu de Causses (France), and Fourme D’Ambert (France)
Stay cheesy out there!